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Menilik Karbon dalam Perjalanan Tekstil

Ilustrasi benang karbon tekstil. Sumber: pexels.com
  • Produksi dan konsumsi tekstil dunia kian meningkat setiap tahunnya
  • Industri tekstil menjadi salah satu kontributor terbesar emisi karbon di dunia
  • Penerapan cicular fashion and production menjadi salah satu opsi solusi menekan jejak karbon

Apabila Sobat EBT Heroes cermati bersama, banyak sekali barang-barang di sekitar kita yang menggunakan bahan dasar tekstil. Tekstil sendiri diambil dari bahasa inggris ‘textile’ dengan makna lembaran dan kemudian diartikan dalam bahasa Indonesia menjadi “kain”. Ternyata produksi, distribusi, hingga pembuangan tekstil ini secara diam-diam menghasilkan karbon dalam jumlah yang cukup besar ke bumi.

Agar makin tahu Indonesia, Sobat EBT Heroes perlu tahu fakta unik dari industri tekstil di Indonesia. Sektor industri tekstil pernah menjadi manufaktur dengan pertumbuhan paling tinggi di tahun 2019 namun kini terancam mati di tahun 2023. Menurut data BPS, hal ini berbanding terbalik dengan kenaikan konsumsi tekstil khususnya pakaian yang terjadi lebih cepat di Indonesia. Lantas sebenarnya bagaimana perkembangan tekstil dan kaitannya dengan karbon? 

Produksi Tekstil

Pabrik Industri Tekstil di Indonesia. Sumber: KataData

Tekstil diartikan sebagai bahan yang terbuat dari benang hasil pemintalan serat yang kemudian ditenun, dirajut atau disatukan membentuk lembaran kain. Bahan dasar tekstil dapat berupa serat alam, serat buatan/sintetis, maupun serat campuran yang penggunaannya disesuaikan dengan target karakteristik akhir kain itu sendiri. Pengolahan tekstil sendiri terbagi menjadi 3 tahap industri berikut.

  1. Hulu: memproduksi bahan baku kain seperti serat dan benang sekaligus dengan proses pewarnaan
  2. Menengah: memintal atau menenun benang menjadi kain
  3. Hilir: memproduksi produk akhir (siap pakai) dari kain

Produk akhir dari tekstil sangatlah beragam mulai dari berbagai kebutuhan sandang (baju, aksesoris, tas, topi, sepatu), pelengkap interior (tirai, salut kursi), perlengkapan rumah tangga (sarung bantal, seprai, taplak), hingga wadah benda (dompet, keranjang). Tak hanya itu, berbagai kerajinan seperti kain batik, kain celup, hingga bahan rajutan. Lalu bagaimana rotasi penggunaan tekstil secara aktual?

Sirkulasi Produk Tekstil 

Sebuah riset menunjukkan bahwa di tahun 2020, manusia membeli pakaian 60% lebih banyak dari tren pembelian tahun 2000. Kemanakah perginya pakaian ini? Tingginya konsumsi produk tekstil secara nyata ditunjukkan dengan naiknya produksi dan penjualan berbagai produk tekstil. Sayangnya, hal ini menunjukkan perilaku konsumtif yang rupanya berujung pada pembuangan tekstil secara cuma-cuma.

Sirkulasi Material Tekstil di Dunia. Sumber: ASustainableCloset

Siklus tekstil menunjukkan bahwa sebagian besar tekstil berujung terbuang. Dalam proses produksi, sebanyak 15% bahan kain terbuang sebagai limbah akibat proses pemotongan. Data Amerika pun menunjukkan 30% baju yang dimiliki terbuang bahkan tanpa pernah digunakan. Sebanyak 73% tekstil akhirnya berujung sebagai timbunan limbah. Limbah tekstil inilah yang menjadi sumber utama produksi karbon dalam jumlah besar. 

Karbon dari Tekstil

Data rerata penelitian memperkirakan produksi 1 kg kain akan menghasilkan 20-23 kg gas rumah kaca. Angka ini secara tidak langsung berkontribusi atas 4-8% total gas rumah kaca global atau berada di kisaran angka 1.7 – 2.1 milyar ton CO2-e/tahun. Jumlah tersebut sangat signifikan terhadap upaya IPCC dan seluruh dunia dalam menekan pemanasan global, sehingga isu karbon dari tekstil menjadi hangat untuk ditangani.

Sebuah produk tekstil akan menghasilkan karbon dari awal dibentuknya benang hingga menjadi limbah. 30% karbon dihasilkan selama kegiatan retail dan penggunaan oleh manusia. Indonesia sendiri menghasilkan 2,3 juta ton limbah tekstil tiap tahun akibat buruknya kualitas material dengan hanya 0,3 juta ton limbah yang didaur ulang. 

Baca juga

Seiring berjalannya waktu, konsumsi tekstil yang meningkat turut mendorong para produsen tekstil untuk melaksanakan produksi secara lebih cepat dan banyak. Kondisi ini memaksa pabrik bekerja secara terus menerus menggunakan energi dalam jumlah besar mulai dari pemotongan, pewarnaan, hingga pembentukan.

Menilik fakta bahwa 70% karbon tekstil dihasilkan selama proses produksi, menunjukkan bagaimana industri tekstil mengambil peranan yang cukup besar dalam kontribusi karbon. Sebagian besar produksi tekstil dunia dilakukan oleh negara berkembang termasuk Indonesia dan China yang masih menggunakan sumber energi tak terbarukan yakni batu bara. Inilah yang menjadi jejak utama karbon tekstil. 

Persentase Sumber Karbon dari Produksi Tekstil. Sumber: McKinsey

Tak hanya produksi dan penggunaan, tingginya jumlah impor barang tekstil siap pakai menjadi ancaman nyata di Indonesia. Sangat disayangkan bahwa Indonesia banyak mengekspor bahan tekstil namun banyak pula mengimpor pakaian, sepatu, dan barang tekstil lain untuk memenuhi permintaan dalam negeri. Proses distribusi antar negara ini menghasilkan karbon dalam jumlah sangat besar. Pengiriman dengan kapal laut menghasilkan 0,488 – 0,739 ton CO2-e/jam perjalanan. Angka ini akan menghasilkan jumlah karbon yang sangat besar untuk perhitungan setiap produknya.

Circular Fashion Menekan Karbon

Solusi konkret atas permasalahan ini adalah penurunan konsumsi dan produksi tekstil dengan mengedepankan prinsip sirkular ekonomi. Prinsip ini pada dasarnya mendorong penggunaan setiap material semaksimal mungkin baik dalam hal kualitas maupun jangka waktu pemakaian.

Penelitian McKinsey menunjukkan bahwa pakaian yang digunakan dua kali lipat lebih lama akan mengurangi 44 % emisi gas rumah kaca yang dihasilkan oleh industri tekstil. Sobat EBT Heroes dapat berkontribusi nyata dengan mengurangi pembelian dan pembuangan pakaian secara sia-sia mulai saat ini!

Baca juga

Di samping itu, kunci utama pengurangan karbon adalah penerapan sistem produksi bersih pada industri tekstil. Hal ini dapat ditempuh dengan berbagai cara, mulai dari penggunaan energi terbarukan, efisiensi energi, pemilihan metode pewarnaan dan pengeringan rendah emisi karbon, hingga penghematan dan penggunaan kembali air. Upaya lain yang banyak ditempuh produsen terutama brand ternama adalah dengan menerima pakaian selesai pakai dari konsumen untuk didaur ulang sebagai bahan material. Hal ini adalah upaya produsen dalam meningkatkan kesadaran masyarakat akan pentingnya circular fashion. 

Jadi, apakah Sobat EBT Heroes mau berkontribusi menghemat penggunaan tekstil pribadi demi lebih baiknya bumi? 

#zonaebt #sebarterbarukan #ebtheroes

Editor: Tika Sari Safitri

Referensi
[1] Apa yang Dimaksud Tekstil? Ini Penjelasan dan Contoh Kerajinannya
[2] Ketahui Proses Produksi pada Industri Tekstil
[3] Textiles: Can We Make Fashion Sustainable?
[4] ‘A monstrous disposable industry’: Fast facts about fast fashion
[5] Menekan Jejak Karbon dengan Penggunaan Bahan Tekstil Lokal
[6] Mengenal fesyen sirkular, siklus yang mengubah dinamika dunia mode

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